Jiuzaigou is a famous area of northern Sichuan, named for the 9 Tibetan villages which are spread out amongst beautiful lakes and waterfalls. The scenes at this nature reserve are often featured in 3-D chinese paintings (often seen in Chinese restaurants) and movies, such as Hero.

We were told by many it should be a must for our honeymoon vacation. As we arrived near the park the streets are lined with large hotels to house the enormous influx of Chinese tour groups. Our objective was to go into the park because our guidebook (which is 3 years old) describes being able to stay in Tibetan guesthouses inside the park. The hotel touts which surrounded us once we stepped off the bus quickly informed us that we wouldn’t be able to go in this late and that people aren’t allowed to stay inside anymore. This then led to the annoying process of finding a hotel in the area. My fatal mistake was not shooing all the touts away. One girl followed us and talked nonstop. We finally agreed to go with her and spent a while arguing about prices. We ended up sharing a room with a lone Korean traveller we met along the way.
Entrance into the park had apparently just been raised on July 1st. It costs almost $30 for a regular ticket plus an $11 bus pass. With our student IDs, we paid $20 to get in and after much debate decided not to get a bus pass. These are pretty exorbitant amounts for China, much less to get into a nature reserve. We walked along a wooden plank path for about 7 or 8 miles. We passed two bright and picturesque Tibetan villages along the way. The villages look like they’ve been given a recent paint job and are mostly used as selling stations for all the tourists.


They were also slightly marred by the large cell phone towers which have taken up residence there. The path we took that first day was beautiful, running alongside roaring rivers, tranquil lakes, and marshy meadows. We hardly saw anyone else walking along it, even though there is estimated to be over 10,000 tourists per day which visit the park. I asked someone along the way if the buses checked for the bus ticket and found that they did not. The buses are almost always accosted by tour groups who hop on and then hop off at the next “site” to take pictures.
We did end up staying in the park that night. It was not difficult to do. We walked up to houses in the upper part of one of the villages and saw a Tibetan home with numbers painted on the doors. I asked the lady and she welcomed us in right away. They are an older couple who were very welcoming and easy to talk to. I asked the lady if she liked what was becoming of the area and she replied, “No, none of us like it.” Not only have their homes turned into a tourist haven with a constant stream of buses roaring around, but they also are technically not allowed to open guesthouses and restaurants anymore (There is a large ugly building in the middle of the park where you can buy an expensive Chinese buffet, it is the only place to get a real meal). We ate our dinner with their family and slept in the traditionally basic wooden Tibetan rooms. The next day, we continued walking our continuous route in the park and decided to stop at some point when the tourists became thick and suffocating.
I was happy to leave Jiuzaigou. The area seems to quickly have become a serious cash cow for China. Indeed, I often felt like a cow, being prodded along in one direction, bleeding out money all along the way. However, we did have a really enjoyable time there in the end. It just took great perserverence and motivation to go against the grain.